The real work is over. The fly could be fished as is.

The final step adds durability, but most of all it gives the Spoon Fly it's glory!

After the fly has hardened mix a small amount of Thirty Minute or slow cure epoxy. Use a tooth pick to paint the epoxy on the fly. With a pair of hemostats fastened to the hook bend, start to rotate the fly and continue to do so until the epoxy starts to thicken to the point where it will not run. Set aside for a day to finish curing. NOTE: A turning motor can't be beat for this step.

I've said it countless times, and I honestly believe it. "The most important tool a fly tier can own is a bath tub". How many times have we judged a fly by the way it appears displayed in a vise. It must be said that many flies that dazzle the eye while sitting proudly and securely within the confines of a bench mounted vise will not garner as much as a look from a fish in the wild. Start noticing the favorite flies of successful guides and you'll find that a lot of them don't look magnificent in hand. If the opportunity arises take those flies and strip them through the water and watch them come alive. It is my opinion that the most important quality of a fly is the way it moves and swims through the water. Second to that would be color and overall size. For Red Fish any color Spoon is fine, AS LONG AS IT'S GOLD. :<)   Just joking. Reds like Spoons no matter what color they may be, BUT Gold is at least as good as any on most occasions.

Take your cured fly and tie it to a light piece of monofilament about 4 feet in length. Fill the bath tub with about 8 inches of water. Pull the fly through the tub and notice it's swimming action.

• Does it wobble or is it lifeless?
• Does the fly keep breaking the water surface? (see note Below)
• When allowed to sink to the bottom does it do so hook up or down?

NOTE: This fly must be allowed to sink below the water surface before the retrieve begins. Give it a moment to sink once it lands on the water and then with very slow, 4 inch strips make the fly seductively slither through the water. If the fly is not allowed to sink below the surface or if the strip is too fast the fly will tend to rise to the top and break the surface. If it is allowed to break the surface all of the fly's action will be lost.

It is my hope that your patient perseverance through these long and tedious instructions will reward you with the satisfaction of building a fly, that if presented properly, any self respecting Red Fish can't resist.

A rose by any other name is still a rose, and no matter what alterations are made, or titles given to it, this fly will always be an offspring of "The Jon Cave's Wobbler Fly".

God Bless Jon Cave...
                              and God's Best to You!

•  The Spoon Fly
•  The Bare Hook
•  The Mylar Body
•  Crowning the Fly

Capt. Dan Ayo
E-mail    -  flyfisher@flyfishlouisiana.com
Website - Shallow Minded Guide Service
(985) 855-1381 before 8 PM Central Time